Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is among - if not - the most crime-free capital cities in Europe. It's a walker's town, despite all the winding hills, with their sudden, stunning vistas as you come around corners.
Sure, the cuisine lacks the fanfare of Greek, Italian or French. Don't let PR mislead you, though. Portuguese cooking is delicious and Lisbon is the place to experience it. If you love sea food you're in for a great treat. Also, if you underestimate the wine, you'll be making a big mistake. Notwithstanding a tradition of Portuguese export wine not being so exceptional, the domestically available vintages are delightful. Even an inexpensive glass from the most out of the way, sawdust on the floor, wine bar offers perfect a accent to the proceedings. And the port! Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
It has all that old Europe stuff: cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and great architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a short trip south takes you to Costa da Caparica: 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches, served by a cute little railway, running their length. It'll drop you off at which ever beach you'd like. (In summer, I'd suggest making the trip on week days.)
Lisbon is a wonderful place to visit. However, I would particularly recommend it to those considering longer stays. If you have the option of a professional sabbatical, a longer vacation that allows you to stay put and learn the rhythms of a place, the ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel and need an inspirational getaway, you can't beat Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is among - if not - the most crime-free capital cities in Europe. It's a walker's town, despite all the winding hills, with their sudden, stunning vistas as you come around corners.
Sure, the cuisine lacks the fanfare of Greek, Italian or French. Don't let PR mislead you, though. Portuguese cooking is delicious and Lisbon is the place to experience it. If you love sea food you're in for a great treat. Also, if you underestimate the wine, you'll be making a big mistake. Notwithstanding a tradition of Portuguese export wine not being so exceptional, the domestically available vintages are delightful. Even an inexpensive glass from the most out of the way, sawdust on the floor, wine bar offers perfect a accent to the proceedings. And the port! Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
It has all that old Europe stuff: cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and great architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a short trip south takes you to Costa da Caparica: 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches, served by a cute little railway, running their length. It'll drop you off at which ever beach you'd like. (In summer, I'd suggest making the trip on week days.)
Lisbon is a wonderful place to visit. However, I would particularly recommend it to those considering longer stays. If you have the option of a professional sabbatical, a longer vacation that allows you to stay put and learn the rhythms of a place, the ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel and need an inspirational getaway, you can't beat Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
About the Author:
For all the latest scoop on the urban must-see list of Europe, follow us at the Best European Cities site. Check out Mitchell Jones intriguing article on the top cities to visit in Eastern Europe .
No comments:
Post a Comment